22.02.2011

Bathrobe Drinking Part II: The legendary Ramos Gin Fizz and my fizzy Hero: Mr. Ernest P. Rawling

The Lost Art of Bathrobe Drinking

As in the Part I of this Article mentioned, me and Mr. Padovani had a splendid time at the very well set up first Belgium Bar Show Venuez. In our talk about the Lost Art of Bathrobe Drinking, we first talked about tomato juice Drinks and came finally up with the WHITE SNAPPER.

But, as we all know, next to this pick me up drinks, a delightful Gin Fizz is one of the greatest drinks to come back to life quick in the morning, recovering from a hard hangover.

So, doing my homework on Gin Fizzes, most on the Ramos Gin Fizz, I discovered two very important Details I missed till yet.

Missed Detail No. 1

First of all, I discovered the most beautiful poem about the joy of enjoying a Fizz in Mr. Wondrichs Books Imbibe:

Ernest P. Rawling: 1914 Rawlings Book of Mixed Drinks 

"While the Cocktail is unquestionably the most popular drink on the 
Pacific coast today, the next in favor is the FIZZ! The long drink par excellence. 

At any time or in any place where the tongue and throat are dry; when the spirits are jaded and the body is weary; after a long automobile trip on hot and dusty roads; it is then that the Gin Fizz comes like a cooling breeze from the sea, bringing new life and the zest and joy of living.  

And in the „morning after the night before“  when the whole world seems gray and lonesome, and every nerve and fibre of the body is throbbing a complaint against the indiscretion, just press the button and oder a GIN FIZZ - 

„Not to sweet please!“ 

It Comes. Oh, shades of the green oasis in the sandy desert of life!"

Wow - I need a FIZZ! Mr. Rawling, you are my personal Fizz Hero. No one ever wrote finer words about this great drink! And this was a fantastic way to explain people why Fizzes are one of the best hangover choices to do.

Reading Wondrichs Imbibe, but also Brown MillersSpirituous Journey Book Two (Which, believe me, is a must have !) I read some more great stories about Mr. Ramos and his Fizz. First of all. Mr. Ramos seemed to be a gentleman we will never find in this days. Wow, what a man! For sure Ramos must be drunk at Lunch time, he closed his Bar latest at eight p.m.!  "It used to be said, mournfully, that if all the Saloon Keepers had been like Mr. Ramos, prohibition would never have come to pass. More than that, it probably would never have been thought of" With day one of Prohibition he announced :" I have sold my last Gin Fizz". He served Gentleman - and Gentleman, of course, would not violate the law. Prohibtion had come to the Ramos bar. But not temperance. Temperance had always been there!"




Missed Detail No. 2

And reading all this, most from an Interview he did after closing Ramos Bar, I enjoyed his "Original Ramos Recipe":


"One and Only One Ramos' Original Gin Fizz
(1) One tablespoonful powdered sugar. 
Three or four drops of Orange Flower Water. 
One-half lime (Juice). 
One-half lemon (Juice). 
(1) One Jigger of Old Tom Gin. 
The white of one egg.
One-half glass of crushed ice. 
About (2) tablespoonsful of rich milk or cream. 
A little Seltzer water (about an ounce) to make it pungent.
Together well shaken and strained (drink freely). 


And I do not know if you realized what I realized.. Did you?

He SHAKED the FIZZ with Seltzer. I have tried this, and indeed: it worked. But, I like to mention, that you may be careful while trying this!

11.02.2011

Bathrobe Drinking Part I: The White Snapper from Lion Labs

The Lost Art of Bathrobe Drinking ... on stage
This year, I attended the first Belgium Barshow - Venuez Hospitality and Style.  And, to make a long story short: I enjoyed being a part of this show. It's maybe like being in a bar. The small once I always fall in love with. Xavier Padovani asks me, if I like to join him for the Stage and I was in to do a talk about Gin. After some research, we came up with the Theme: The lost Art of Bathrobe Drinking. Finally, something all true Gentleman should start at one point in life. And, most times you are in the need for a Bathrobe drink, you may just recover from the night before.

So, I suggested to talk about the Red Snapper - the nowadays famous version off the Bloody Mary, made with Gin instead of vodka. But, while doing my research on the Issue, I found out, that modern bartenders are wrong in calling a Bloody Mary with Gin a Red Snapper.

One of the first tomato drinks mentioned in a printed book is the non alcoholic "Tomato Cocktail"

THE TOMATO COCKTAIL from „Here‘s how again“ - by Judge JR. NYC 1929

„This very simple concoction is guaranteed to pik you up no matter how low you have fallen. Take a can of tomato soup and place in a shaker full of ice. Add a few dashes of Worchestershire Sauce and shake well“
1930 „Noble Experiments “(3rd volume in the Here‘s How Series)“ Can of Delford Tomatoes, add salt and shake with 2 or 2 cubes of ice. Worcestershire, tobasco or pepper may be added if desired“



But already in 1892 the was a kind of Paper, called THE MEDICAL RECORD. 12th march of 1892 it quoted the LONDON'S Hospital Gazette while descriing the "OYSTER COCKTAIL" as it is served in the MANHATTAN CLUB New York.

The Oyster Cocktail:

7 small oysters dropped into a tumbler. Add pinch of salt, three drops of fiery Tobasco sauce, three drops of Mexican Chilli pepper sauce, and a spoonful of lemon juice. To this mixture add a little horseradish and green pepper sauce, African pepper, ketchup, black pepper, and fill up with tomato juice. This should be stirred with a spoon, very slightly crushing the oyster, which are then lifted out and eaten, the liquid following as a cocktail.

Serving this drink on stage of Venuez was quite entertaining and it needed a second to find brave bartenders to try it in the morning.

So, the Bloody Mary is dedicated to the HARRY'S NEW YORK BAR Paris. Historicans say, that HNYB PAris starts serving the Bloody Mary in 1920 - 1924 to be precise. The Bartender, often called for inventing this Drink, Fernand Petiote, was at this time working at HNYB PAris and left it round about 1927. He was traveling the World, working in the most famous bars of the world and stopped 1934 in New York city to opne the KING CREOLE BAR in the St. Regis Hotel.

In a Interview from 1964 Pete said: „I iniated the Bloody Mary of today! Jessel said he createtd it, but it was really nothing but vodka and tomato juice when I took it over. I cover the bottom of the shaker with four large dashes of salt, two dashes of black pepper, two dashes of cayenne pepper and a layer of Worchestershire sauce. I then add a dash of lemon juice and some racked ice, put in two ounces of vodka and two ounces of thick tomato juice, shake, starn and pour. We serve a hundred to a hundred and fifty a day here in the King Cole Room and the Hotel“

So finally the Bloody Mary was not created by him. But, as he explains, the mixture of half tomato juice and half vodka was pushed by him to a great drink with spices and aroma. Starting 1934 in New York, he changed the name of this drink to RED SNAPPER. Bloody Mary was too risqué for conservative New Yorkes. As fare as I could find out, RED SNAPPER was first mention at: 1941“Crosby Gaige‘s Cocktail Guide and Ladies Companion“ Drink from King‘s Cole Bar. Some historicans are not sure, how Vodka was excessable at this time in Europe. So, it could be possible that he, during his years on the road, changed to Gin, because Vodka was very rare at this time. But, this is not sure. Arriving 1934 in New York, Vodka was Super hip to serve and so it makes sense to go for Vodka in this drink. The NAme, Jarred and Anistatica came up with this one, may be related to a spice claims tomato sauce. One brand in Cannada is RED SNAPPER. One Product produced in the Area of New Orleans was called The RED SNAPPER SAUCE.

So, finally it looks like that the Bloody Mary is simple Vodka and Tomato Juice, the Red Snapper is the same with a amount of fine spice etc. But all this does not work for us in a Bathrobe Drink Presentation with a GIN DRINK. So, we had to come up with something very new:

THE WHITE SNAPPPER, by Lion Labs

50 ml of Hendrick's Gin
80 ml of l'eau de Tomate

Dashes of Lemon, Worchester, Pepper, Salt, Tabasco if not spiced

shake & serve

A L'eau de Tomate is quiet easy to produce. We had a friend of Xavier on stage, nobody else than Julien Burlat, the chief at the one Michelin Star Restaurant Dôme from Antwerp. First of all, it toke us a few days to win him for this project. Because, he never does something "Out of season" - and currently it is not tomato seasson. So he did us 5 litres of the finest L'eau de Tomate mankind was ever allowed to taste this days. You just heat tomato short time, peal them, mash them, and put them in a very fine filter/strainer for a night. The Eau drops off over night. And if you have a great chief like Julien, he spices this Eau perfect ...you just need Hendrick's Gin to taste!

The White Snapper is a PERFECT drink for Restaurant Bars. Just let your kitchen produce Eau de Tomate over night. And if you start serving White Snappers, you may never serve a bloody Bloody Mary again.

Research / Credits:

1.)  Spirituous Journey - Book "Two" by Brown/Miller
2.)  Wondrichs Imbibe
3.)  Chanticleer Society on Bloody Mary
4.)  Jeff Masson
5.)  Julien Burlat from Dôme Antwerp

10.02.2011

Kaufempfehlung: Coleburn Single Malt - 26 Years.


Coleburn Single Malt - 26 Years. 1983-2010
Originally uploaded by Joerg Meyer

Ich erspare mir Verkostungsnotizen, dafür eine kleine Situationsbeschreibung. Nach einem guten Lunch mit Herr Scholl und Herrn Williams war es eine absolute Notwendigkeit gestern Nachmittag eine mittelschwere, gut eine Stunde dauernde, Nachmittagszigarre in Angriff zu nehmen.

Tatwaffe: Bolivar Torpedo
Tatort: La Casa del Habano - http://www.havanazigarren.de
Mitttäter: Christoph Wolters
Begleitgetränk: Coleburn 26 Jahre . 1983 bis 2010 - limited Edition, knapp 300 Flaschen. Unglaublich guter Whisky - Kaufempfehlung.

Es sein dem geneigten Zigarren und Whiskyfreund die Casa am Nachmittag empfohlen. Dort kann man nämlich Platznehmen, Cigarre genießen und Spirituosen verkosten. Und wir haben ein wenig in der Flasche übriggelassen.

09.02.2011

"Tiki Deutschland" in der Krise

2011 ist es auch ganz unten angekommen - TIKI scheint zurück, so sagt man. Und jeder erst-, aber auch zweitklassige Rum Hersteller scheint sich TIKI auf die Fahnen zu schreiben. Warum auch nicht? Wie sollte man einfacher Rum verkaufen...


Also, die bekloppten Schirmchen wieder rausgeholt, ein buntes Hemd angezogen, alles mal endlich wieder nicht so eng sehen und schön locker um die Tresen Ecke. Aber plötzlich, so "all of a sudden", tritt ein Problem am Horizont auf. TIKI schreit nach Falernum. Und da ist sie! Gestatten: "üble Lücke". Die Kaderschmiede des guten Falernum Geschmacks, einer der wenigen echten Handarbeitsbetriebe in unsere Branche, Forgotten Flavours, vielmehr der Mann dahinter, Torben Bornhöft, lässt bei einem erneuten Bestellversuch die Alarmglocken angehen: Falernum gibt es erst wieder Ende Februar... eventuelle.

Zum ersten mal seit Eröffnung des Löwen haben wir also nunmehr unsäglichen Velvet Falernum bestellt. Und da fragt man sich: kann das sein? Statt der uns überrollenden Holunderblüten Wellen aus vielen Häusern wäre hier nun einmal ein wirklicher Bedarf. Gibt es eine Alternative zu Forgotten Flavours Falernum? Ich denke derzeit nicht! Hat jemand einen Vorschlag? Jeder Strassendealer weiß, das abhängig machen und dann nicht mehr liefern ein verdammt hinterhältiger Zug ist. Also Herr Bornhoft: ran an die Limetten!

Links:

Falernum Tasting im Tastings Blog

www.forgottenflavours.com